The greatest restaurant-picker ever.

The closest thing I have to a mother/sister in Japan.

The best self-taught English speaker I know.

One of the hardest workers I've met here.

One of the longest commuters I've met here.

Did I mention the best restaurant-picker ever?

She's taken me all over Tokyo, from the finest tofu specialty shop above Ueno station to the bowels of the Ginza 5 for authentic Thai. She taken me to restaurants with candles and restaurants with blazing chandaleirs.

She's taken me to a rabbit-themed restaurants.

She's taken me to her aunt's home where there were no cooks but a few old farm hands, seasoned veterans who have been making Udon by hand for decades.

She's taken me everywhere, and never once complained about my vegetarian inclination.

On Tuesday she took me to a tiny alley in Hamamatucho--just close enough to Tokyo Tower to feel that red glow--and then led me into a place called Nguyen where she had arranged a course meal for her, myself, Takiko, Yasuko and Emi, a meal that laster over three hours, four glasses of wine, and was so immaculate that I couldn't believe we didn't have to leave a tip.

But this is Japan, and here, there are no tips...

Besides being a microscopically small four table restaurant with an open kitchen and a French theme, there was something more than atmosphere that made this meal special: Megumi knew the chef and the owner, and had arranged that my meal be cooked completely vegetarian, and completely original.

Every dish I tasted was unique, and every dish amazing.

But beyond the taste, the atmosphere, the tired friends toasting to work, Japan, America, and life; beyond those things... there was Megumi, who's kindness and comradarie I will never forget.

And when she comes to Nebraska in the not-so-far future, I will have to treat her to something delicious... but alas, since I can't really cook and the Lincoln gourmet scene doesn't yet rival Tokyo in its scope or granduer, I'm hoping that a batch of mom's cookies will do.

I know Meg will appreciate them, at least.

And to think... all of this came from a chance meeting at a little youth hostle in front of Kyoto station almost a year ago.

Unbelievable, really.