When you are a non-drinker in Japan, it's tough to get people excited for your birthday.

But who cares, I had a wonderful 22nd tanjyobi that was completely alcohol-free, despite the best efforts from my Irish, Spanish, Mexican and French friends--and believe me, they tried hard to convince me that alcohol was a necessity. Since today was the Autumnal Equinox, classes were cancelled, which meant last night would have been perfect for a little nomihodai trip, and, they reasoned, for my first drunk experience.

C'mon Brett! You're in JAPAN!

What happens in Japan STAYS in Japan!

It's only one time! It's your birthday!

... I said no, and no... and no again. I maybe would have said yes if the entire group had decided to travel to Roppongi for dancing AND drinking, but they only wanted to go to a cheap nomihodai near Mukogakouen station and sit around for two hours pounding shitty tasting Asahi; I had to decline. But today really ended up just fine.

Nadia, the 29-year-old Spaniard recognized my distaste for alcohol but wanted to celebrate my birthday somehow, so she promised to cook breakfast for me. Little did I know a "Spanish" breakfast was a simple concoction comprised of orange juice, a banana, and a single piece of white toast topped with Nutella.

Fine with me. Hazelnuts and chocolate, mmm. Thank you, Nadia.

I spent my afternoon in Shinjuku shopping around with Franc, and we ended up at a lovely hole-in-the-wall Sushi joint that cost 140 yen per plate (about $1.20). The food simply moved around the square bar on a conveyer belt as the four incredibly animated chefs created it. Patrons were expected to simply pull of what they liked and chow down, stacking their plates so that they could be counted later for pricing purposes.

Each seat at this Sushi bar had a small spigot for steaming hot water, with packets of tea stationed nearby.

It was truly a wonderful place, and for about $8 I was able to completely gorge myself in one of the greatest atmospheres on the planet: a tiny, square room at the bottom of some kind of giant skyscraper, packed with hungry Japanese businessmen, screaming chefs, and of course Franc and myself.

"Irashiyaimase!!" could be heard over and over again, the Chef's shouting it each time a customer entered the room. (I think the best English translation of the word is "Welcome most honored customer!")

To order a specific Sushi creation, we simply had to get the attention of one of the chefs with a loud, "Sumimasen!" and then make our request, at which time he would repeat our order in a riotous voice that echoed all around. Moments later our food would be riding down the conveyer belt into our hands, and eventually our stomachs.

Seven plates of Sushi later, it was over, and as I exited I let out a loud thank you: "Gochisosamadeshita!" which sent the cooks into a frenzy. (It translates as a simple way of honoring the person who cooked the meal, but when a gaijin says such a thing it often produces a very enthusiastic response that, for me, makes the meal that much more worthwhile.)

Absolutely fantastic. I'll be going back soon.